Lisa Graf
MEET LISA GRAF, PASTRY CHEF AT GHOST RANCH, AN ARIZONA RESTAURANT THAT CREATES UNIQUE SOUTHWESTERN CUISINE. THEY SERVE FLAVORFUL HOUSE SPECIALTIES, TACO PLATTERS AND WOOD FIRED GRILL ENTREES, SIGNATURE COCKTAILS LIKE THE PRICKLY PEAR FROSE MARGARITA AND INNOVATIVE DESSERTS INCLUDING COCOFLAN AND CHURRO ICE CREAM SANDWICHES BY CHEF GRAF.
A chef never reveals their secret to creating a signature dish, but they may share a little about their inspiration, or a few key ingredients that please tastebuds and once plated, look almost too good to eat. Desserts at times embody the dining out experience— with specialty flavors and unexpected combinations — they are often the last impression of that restaurant and can create loyal customers who come back time and again for that unique treat.
Ghost Ranch Pastry Chef Lisa Graf is a native of southern Colorado, and after traveling to Europe as a teenager, was inspired to become a pastry chef. Graf relocated to Santa Fe, New Mexico in the early 2000s, where she honed her skills as part of an esteemed local culinary arts program, earning her pâtissier certificate in 2006.
She launched her career running the pastry programs at two James Beard Foundation-recognized restaurants, La Boca and the Compound. Graf previously worked in the kitchens of Mama’s Fish House in Maui, Scottsdale’s Roka Akor and Hotel Valley Ho before working at Ghost Ranch.
Stylish Storyteller: When did you begin working at Ghost Ranch?
Chef Lisa Graf: “I began working at Ghost Ranch in Fall 2020 when my husband was hired as the new executive chef. After almost ten months of not working during the pandemic, this was an amazing opportunity to be a part of.”
Where did you receive your culinary training and education?
LG: “When I was 17, I worked at a small fine dining restaurant in Santa Fe as a hostess, but eventually I became bored and wanted to try working as the pastry chef. Even though I knew the basics of baking, it turned out I needed to learn more about the science and skill of pastry. Because of this, I signed up for some pastry classes at Santa Fe Community College in New Mexico. My teacher/mentor saw something in me and convinced me to sign up for a seven-month program to receive my Pâtissier Certificate through SFCC.
“I finished the course and my teacher then asked me to work as her pastry assistant at a new restaurant she and her husband were opening. I had firsthand training from my teacher at La Boca Santa Fe, and also from the pastry chef whom I worked under at The Compound Santa Fe. The Compound had just won a James Beard Award and it was a great way to be fully trained through the grit and love of this industry.”
SS: What initially drew you to the culinary industry and why?
LG: “I grew up in a small town in southern Colorado, but my dad’s family gradually moved up to Denver. I think going out to eat with my aunts showed me a lot of culinary diversity that I probably wouldn’t have seen growing up in my hometown. It definitely struck my interest with food and of course travel. So, I think my obsession with travel and learning about different cuisines at a young age shaped my draw to the industry.”
“I love being creative when it comes to food, it’s my passion. It’s also really satisfying when you have an idea and it works out, because sometimes it doesn’t. It really is like mad science sometimes.
“I also love to play with new flavor combinations and introduce that to the guest. The guests I serve are a big motivation because it’s very rewarding when people love your creations.”
SS: When did you travel to Europe and which countries' cultures and food scenes inspired you the most and why?
LG: “I traveled to England and Scotland when I was 13, and then again to mainland Europe when I was 17 (even though my parents said no), then again when I was 21. I’ve been to Britain 4 times, only once to actually hang out though. As far as mainland Europe goes … I have been to Italy, France, Germany, Belgium, Netherlands and Spain.
“We had friends in Italy that showed us around and it was incredible to experience the food scene. The farmers markets were out of this world! I was also inspired by the amazing pastries in France. And I LOVE Spain and their food scene, which is very inspiring for sweet and savory dishes.”
SS: How would you describe your style when creating desserts? Do you have any signature dishes?
LG: “I wouldn’t say one specific dish is my signature, but I would say that my style is high-end plated desserts. I like to try new techniques, and love to make the dish aesthetically appealing but also delicious. If it doesn’t taste good, then what’s the point? I also love making fun flavors of ice cream.”
“I think it’s important to use local product as much as possible to not only support local farmers and companies, but also to represent the landscape. We have so many unique ingredients in the Southwest that most of the world doesn’t even know about.
“We have so many people that travel here to experience the Southwest so I think it’s important to give them that through dining.”
SS: Throughout your career as a pastry chef, what challenges have you overcome as a woman in the male-dominated restaurant industry?
LG: “It’s a very egotistical male-dominated industry, so I think one of the biggest challenges is standing your ground. I feel like in the last few years things have changed as far as sexual harassment is concerned, but I would say that has been an issue/challenge my whole career. I learned early on that you have to be strong and firm in this industry or you will get trampled.
“The other challenge is being a chef and a mother. I’ve had issues with male chefs not really understanding that my child is my top priority. I’ve had to leave jobs because of it.”
“Get ready for hard work, buy some comfy shoes and strive to be a badass. Stand your ground and demand respect. Always remember there’s an end to the shift, so if something goes wrong, there’s always tomorrow. It’s OK to cry in the walk-in if you need to.”
- Chef Graf’s advice to aspiring women chefs
SS: In your experience at many restaurants, what motivates you to continue to innovate and create dynamic, tasty desserts?
LG: “I love being creative when it comes to food, it’s my passion. If you love what you do it will be a constant motivation. It’s also really satisfying when you have an idea and it works out, because sometimes it doesn’t. It really is like mad science sometimes.
“I also love to play with new flavor combinations and introduce that to the guest. The guests I serve are a big motivation because it’s very rewarding when people love your creations.”
SS: How does living (and working) in Arizona, influence how you incorporate local, seasonal ingredients into your Southwestern-inspired desserts?
LG: “I think it’s important to use local product as much as possible to not only support local farmers and companies, but also to represent the landscape. We have so many unique ingredients in the Southwest that most of the world doesn’t even know about.
“Because I grew up in areas that had a diverse food landscape, I think it was instilled in me at the beginning of my career how important it is to support the location you’re living in. We have so many people that travel here to experience the Southwest so I think it’s important to give them that through dining.”
Chef Graf’s Cocoflan dessert with white chocolate milk crumble, raspberry mouse mesquite tuile and fresh raspberries served at Ghost Ranch.
SS: Where do you find inspiration for your desserts? What celebrity chefs, social media or other mediums are a source of inspiration for you?
LG: “I get different visual inspiration from Instagram and it’s cool to see what people are doing all over the world. It’s especially enlightening that even though this pandemic has damaged our industry so much, people are still creating. I love pretty much everything that Giorgia Eugenia Goggi does, she’s an Italian chef, and Yotam Ottolenghi is amazing as well. I also get a lot of inspiration from my collection of cookbooks.”
SS: What has been the most rewarding aspect of being a pastry chef and why?
LG: “It’s a crazy industry and I’m a little crazy so I think it’s been a good fit for me. I think the most rewarding part is that I’ve been able to be so creative and hands on with what I do. I’ve tried being a secretary and a gallery manager and it just wasn’t for me. I like doing things with my hands. It can be exhausting being a chef at times, but the creativity makes it worth it.”
SS: What advice would you give to girls or young women who aspire to be professional chefs?
LG: “Get ready for hard work, buy some comfy shoes and strive to be a badass. Stand your ground and demand respect. Always remember there’s an end to the shift, so if something goes wrong, there’s always tomorrow. It’s OK to cry in the walk-in if you need to.”
SS: What are you most looking forward to as a pastry chef at Ghost Ranch?
LG: “I’m looking forward to making and changing the desserts with the seasons. I would also love to start building relationships with local farmers to use their products on the desserts and keep things as local as possible. I can’t wait to see how we can grow, and I hope as we expand, I can run departments at multiple restaurants as a corporate chef. I love what we’re doing and look forward to my future with the company.”
